Top of the bell tower in Split, Croatia

The warning was ominous: Climb the bell tower at your own risk! And just below: 10 kroons. For a couple of bucks, you can’t go wrong, right?

As I made my way up the narrow passage, I walked slowly as I had seen several people slip on the slippery stone steps in Split. And then the passageway opened up and the stairs were no longer stone, but of thin rusty metal that wound up the interior perimeter of the tower.

I’m not typically afraid of heights, but as I made my way up the 60 metre tower, the combination of the strong winds blowing through the tower columns and the cracks in the stone where the stairs were bolted filled me with a nervous excitement. As I proceeded upwards, I mentally planned my escape plan if the stairs suddenly collapsed.

But the escape plan would have to wait for another day. I emerged at the top of the tower and looked out over Split and the Adriatic Sea. 6 months ago, 3 months ago, 1 week ago, I did not expect to be here. I sat there for a long time just watching the city, the sea, and the sun’s slow descent.

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